A gourmet who thinks of calories is like a tart who looks at her watch… James Beard
Here we are, flying headlong into The Crazy Season, when school meetings, work commitments, music lessons, homework, soccer games, and dirty socks are springing up like mushrooms under my weed-block after a good rain.
The number of things that needs to be remembered on a daily basis is taxing my peri-menopausal brain to the point where visible smoke is beginning to wisp out of my ears.
This morning, we left the house with no less than two adults, two children, one 90 lb (smelly) dog, one double bass, three lunches, an art portfolio, two backpacks, a bag of running gear, a work bag with computer and files, a messenger bag full of photos, and a tea cup in waiting.
It was one of those multi-stop mornings that included dropping off The Husband at a Philly Car Share pod to grab an hourly car for meetings in NYC. Then, off to the Waldorf School of Philadelphia only to realize that Number Two left his bow and rosin on the dining room table resulting in an unplanned loop to retrieve the missing items while en-route to my office where I was 9 minutes late for a phone consult that actually was rescheduled for 1:00pm. (Pant, pant.)
Fortunately, that left me with an extra 45 minutes to breathe, recalibrate the pace, and to try to stop thinking about fruit tarts.
Fruit tarts with pears and maple sugar. Fruit tarts with peaches, plums, cherries and lavender honey. Fruit tarts with blueberries and rosemary. Reminders of lazy summer evenings filled with beautiful friends, music, laughter and fruit tarts.
No, I won’t think about those at all.
My obsession with fruit tarts started innocently enough with a platter of gorgeous Seckel pears that would rapidly pass from centerpiece to fruit-fly lunch if not eaten…. Mark Bittman’s Free-Form Fruit Tart recipe provided the perfect palette for my pears and the framework for the many delicious summer deserts that would follow.
It was easy to “organicize” (my new favorite word) the tart shell with raw-milk-butter, organic, unbleached flour, and eggs from a friend’s free-ranging backyard chickens. The filling proved a different matter altogether.
I happen to be one of those food snobs who is willing to search—and pay a premium—for high quality, fresh, clean food—but dangit, more often than not this summer, I just could not find seasonal, organic fruit that was from anywhere remotely near my part of the country.
I trolled the food co-op, the farmer’s markets and even Whole Foods Market in search of local, seasonal, organic fruit, but very often had a hard time finding it. And given that many summer fruits score high on the top pesticide-laden fruits and veggies list (peaches are #1, apples #2, nectarines, strawberries and cherries come in at 5,6 and 7) this is no place to “wink, wink, nudge, nudge” and eat it anyway.
Not good. Not good at all.
In a fit of Tart Desperation, I did some research and settled on the next best thing to locally grown, organic fruit: Integrated Pest Management, or IPM fruits from Kaufman’s Fruit Farm in Bird-in-Hand, PA.
IPM crops are not organic but are tended as judiciously as is possible with the intention to use natural predators, planting patterns and good ol’ fashioned decision making as an alternative to mass spraying. Yes, there are pesticides used occasionally, but (hopefully) only as a last resort.
The resulting tarts were worth the search and sharing them with friends and family a treat unto itself.
Here are a few of the fillings I used (see the recipe link above for the quick and easy tart dough recipe):
Pear Spice: About 2 cups of thinly sliced pears sprinkled with juice of 1 organic lemon and tossed with about 2 tablespoons grade “b” or “c” maple syrup. Top with a mixture of 2 tablespoons maple sugar mixed with 1/4 teaspoon of cinnamon.
Blueberry: 2 cups blueberries tossed with 3 tablespoons light brown sugar and 1/4 teaspoon finely chopped rosemary, topped with 2 tablespoons melted butter. (I'll bet this would be delish with some kind of fancy liquer mixed in!)
Peach, Plum, Cherry, Blueberry: Toss fruit with 3 tablespoons lavender infused butter (heat 2 tablespoons organic unsalted butter until just bubbling, add a few sprigs of fresh lavender and let sit for 10-15 minutes) use the “soaked lavender” as a paintbrush to butter the crust, Drizzle with 1-2 tablespoons honey.
I served the tarts topped with either home-made maple ice cream or fresh whipped cream with a splash of organic vanilla and a sprinkle of powdered sugar.
As Fall settles in and the newness of the busy schedule becomes more routine, I'll look forward to making a few more of these, instead of just dreaming of them...
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